The woods are lovely, dark, and deep; But I have promises to keep, and miles to go before I sleep. - Robert Frost, Stopping by Woods on a Snowy Evening
As I’ve always told many, trail runs to me are just that, I don’t consider them races or have a much desire to run the at a race pace. Perhaps the only ‘trail’ run I’ve really did do so were the Volcano Marathon, though this was only after the route was changed this year and consisted more of paved roads with parts of the back trails intermittently put in (still sad to see the whole event gone). For me trail running is a way for me to get back to the pure essence of why I started running, finding my inner peace and just being free.
When the 2008 H.U.R.T. Trail Series came out, I noticed that the 24-hours of Hogsback had been replaced with the 54-miler. I thought ‘Wow! That’ll be something to do!’ At the time I was still considering whether to re-enter the H.U.R.T. 100 (and did so after much conversation with John S., Maniacles, Ray, and numerous other H.U.R.T. runners). Gordon and Fish proclaimed this to be ‘the test’ in seeing where you were in terms of training for the 100-miler.
As many know, through guilt by association with a certain Hawai‘i Marathon Maniac, Shaka and I are often faced with deciding to do another ‘tour of the Islands’ with the numerous annual marathons (and a few ultras) on each Island. When we saw the date of the Peacock event, we both thought ‘that could be manageable to do’ following the Maui Marathon in mid-September. I looked as this as a means to increasing my mileage for the H.U.R.T. 100 in January. We (Shaka, Heather, and I) were able to get in two sessions of it, though Shaka got an extra…all with a great coach and mentor in Rex! WilyC & Habu were able to make the last practice run though it was the day that everyone did a make or break in pushing the pace on the route!
During the practice sessions or ‘tours’, the weather was basically the same…hot and humid with occasional gusts that produced mini dust storms. Someone mentioned that it never really rained much during this event and when it did well…
As the days counted down to the event, Shaka and I took stock of what we needed in terms of nutrition, equipment, and clothing. Gordon reminded us repeatedly to take at least a good long sleeve (if not jacket) as during the evening, the upper trails do get a bit cold. Here’s a listing of what I packed for the event:
- my hydration pack
- 20 gels (assortment of Hammer and Power)
- 2 bags of marguarita (xtra sodium) ClifBlocs
- 6 ClifBars + 2 trail mix bars + 2 PowerBars
- three 24-oz bottles of Gatorade
- 3 peanut butter sandwiches
- 1 gallon of drinking water
- a 12-oz cans of Red Bull
- two handheld flashlights (actually my ‘Catseye’ cycling lights)
- two headlamps
- extra batteries (AA & AAA)
- two extra technical shirts to change into (after each loop)
- a long sleeve technical shirt for the evening
- a thin windbreaker
- toilet paper
- a small first-aide kit
- my cell phone (fully charged)
- three beach towels
- extra clothes for post-race
- a small cooler for my ‘stash’ at the turnaround on Long Road containing a bottle of Gatorade, a Nalgene of water, a can of Red Bull, a bag of Oreo cookies, three gels, and two ClifBars.
- $10 for the entry fee
- my hydration pack
- 20 gels (assortment of Hammer and Power)
- 2 bags of marguarita (xtra sodium) ClifBlocs
- 6 ClifBars + 2 trail mix bars + 2 PowerBars
- three 24-oz bottles of Gatorade
- 3 peanut butter sandwiches
- 1 gallon of drinking water
- a 12-oz cans of Red Bull
- two handheld flashlights (actually my ‘Catseye’ cycling lights)
- two headlamps
- extra batteries (AA & AAA)
- two extra technical shirts to change into (after each loop)
- a long sleeve technical shirt for the evening
- a thin windbreaker
- toilet paper
- a small first-aide kit
- my cell phone (fully charged)
- three beach towels
- extra clothes for post-race
- a small cooler for my ‘stash’ at the turnaround on Long Road containing a bottle of Gatorade, a Nalgene of water, a can of Red Bull, a bag of Oreo cookies, three gels, and two ClifBars.
- $10 for the entry fee
The morning of the event, I ‘woke to the sound of pouring rain’, but figured when we got to the other side it would be quite clear. WRONG!!! The rain intensified as we (Heather, Shaka, and I) traveled down to Dillingham Airfield with numerous puddles forming along the roadway. Participants stood in the rain getting last minute items packed into their hydration packs or pockets and putting on partially drenched shoes.As with most major events, things don’t always turn out as planned. In my haste to leave I forgot my ‘stash’ when I set it down to pet my dog goodbye for the day. During the trek there, my pack had tipped over and most of the water leaked out.
The start of H.U.R.T. races are no spectacular event (with exception of the Maunawili run), ‘just out ya all go!’ As Don and Gordon gave final instructions, they warned us of the impending elements and treacherous areas that may await us. ‘Safety is the main thing!’ With all being said and done, Don the reported, “20 seconds to start!” Whoops guess I wasn’t gonna be able to refill my water, oh well there was copious amounts falling from the sky! I had only about 50-oz of water still inside when we started, but luckily I also put a bottle of Gatorade in the exterior pocket of the pack.
As Don and Gordon gave final instructions, they warned us of the impending elements and treacherous areas that may await us. ‘Safety is the main thing!’ With all being said and done, Don the reported, “20 seconds to start!” Whoops guess I wasn’t gonna be able to refill my water, oh well there was copious amounts falling from the sky!
About 28 people braved the rain to sign up and start the run that morning, all having various goals and reasons for doing this. For Brenda, Ryan, Shakaman and I, it was just all about finishing and within the allotted time…so basically the clock was our main adversary. So as we began our initial approach to the singletrack switchbacks ascending the mountain, I did a quick job up to jockey a good position and not get stuck to far in the back.
I managed to pace out with Marian and a young Army cadet named Mike. It’s always fun hanging out and passing time with Marian. We shared fun stories and interesting experiences, including her recent mainland ultras (Miwok & Rocky Raccoon) and my ‘Iceman’ incedent (getting hypothermia at Hilo2Volcano)…perhaps a foretelling of things to come!
Three simple words most characterize the event that day…wet and muddy! The switchbacks and steep sets of jeep trail inclines were quickly becoming miniature waterfalls with the base ponding with mud and water. As we rounded several curves, we felt our feet skidding across the loose surfacing with little purchase beneath the mud. Throughout all the tumultuous amount of mud and constant drizzle of rain, we all remained positive and optimistic…better cool, wet and a bit muddy than hot, humid and dust, right? Besides we (or at least most of us) were having a great time! I’ve always mentioned to John S. that a good amount of mud is a requirement for events to be actual H.U.R.T. runs!
In reaching the short asphalt road, Rob was at the bottom providing Gatorade, water, snacks, and much support. He had braved the mud in his truck to set up a makeshift station, despite the wind and rain he was all smiles in making sure we were good to go for the duration of the two loops! Thanks Rob!
In reaching the single-track trail along the ridgeline of the mountain range (time at 2 hours, 30 minutes), I let Marian go first, with that she sped off along the ridge. Mike was still pacing off with me but I could tell he was losing steam as we traversed the route to the intersection going to Peacock Flats. He fell back about 100 meters but made up the distance once we returned to the jeep trail. He looked pretty exhausted so tried to keep up a conversation with him to get him to settle down and just keep a steady pace. He was rather pensive, so I settled on just commenting on a few landmarks and observances I made out loud to just cut the silence of the run.
The trail out to Peacock Flats and Long Road was already accumulating a lot of water and mud, about halfway through we encountered an off-roader going in the opposite direction. We exchanged ‘shakas’ and went our way. About a mile to the Green gate, I picked up a flattened can of ‘Monster’ Energy Drink that seemed to have been recently tossed and took it with me to dispose of. Gotta take care of the ‘aina!
The aide station at the bottom of Long Road was perhaps one of the best highlights of the entire event! Cheryl and Wah were instrumental in not only having everything ready there and aiding runners with refilling hydration packs, but also keeping our morale up! They were totally AWESOME! Words cannot describe the amount of support and motivation they gave each time a runner came in to refuel! Mahalos ladies! Fish, who was waiting for the second loop to pace Marian, was also great in making sure I was well stocked with fuel and remind me to make sure I had what I needed for my next loop.
As I began my way back up Long Road, Cheryl and Fish shoved a bag of Sun Chips into my hand, reminding me to pull out and devour my pbj sandwich I had packed earlier. As I devoured sections of the sandwich, I scanned the road to see what happened to Mike. I had stopped for about 10 minutes (in at 4 hrs, 3 min; out by 4:13) and he had not even been sighted coming down the road yet. As I got to within 200 meters of the gate, he had just crossed over it and was jogging toward me. He looked a bit beat but was maintaining that he had pushed the descent too much (I later found out that he pulled out at the aid station). Following him were Brenda, Ryan, Johnny, Ernest, and Mike M, all in great spirits and moving quickly to the aid station! Alright gang! Halfway up to the first water tank, Habu came ‘a motorin’ around’…with a big smile on his face! He made a few comments about the mud but was having a great time! Looking at my watch it was not yet 5 hours! He could actually do the entire event, just making it in at the cutoff! Go Habu-sama!! In reaching the second water tank, I encountered Heather and few others doing only one loop. She looked very warm in her pullover! Yup was jealous!
My plan was to push up Long Road with a very moderate tempo’d power walk, then go back to running at a good pace once I got back onto the trails. It was all proceeding well. The rain was still falling creating additional mud and causing some rockfall along the side of the trail going back to the Kealia trail. I was in great spirits and even stopped to pick up more discarded material, a very large rain poncho rolled up neatly and two additional drink cans. About 1/3 of the way there I encountered a group of off-roading vehicles (three trucks and two jeeps), the people were amazed at all the runners and were having fun themselves. Many of the drivers were having quite a challenge maneuvering their vehicles in the slick mud!
I made great time in getting back to the Kealia trail and even better time to the switchbacks…much due to Gordon’s great marking of the route! At first I thought the shale and loose rocks on the descent back down would be the problem, turned out the saturated trail had turned to goo making slipping the primary issue. Nonetheless I proceeded down unfaltered, acknowledging and cheering on those beginning their second loop.
I completed my first loop in just over 7 hours (7:03). After checking in with John & PJ, they quickly offered to help me reload everything. I thanked them for their kokua but had my supplies on my truck only a 100 meters away. ‘Mr & Mrs H.U.R.T.’ are always so supportive and helpful! In making my way to my vehicle, I ran through my mind what I was gonna do. I got off my pack then switched shirts, drying off with a warm towel in between. I then got my wet shoes and socks off, got them bagged up, and got on clean, dry ones. I traded my cap for a visor then pulled out what I needed for the next loop: long-sleeve shirt, two hand held lights, headlamp, five more gels, another sandwich, and a ClifBar just in case.
During my first loop I had consumed half a Powerbar, 6 gels, a bag of PowerBurst energy gummies, and four ClifBlocs (along with the sandwich and chips), along with drinking my bottle of Gatorade. Figured I’d be out longer this time so had a total of 7 gels, a bag of ClifBlocs, three ClifBars, a PowerBar, half a bag of PowerBursts, and another pbj sandwich. I refilled my Gatorade bottle and water pouch, packed my equipment up, did a once over, then secured my car. I thought about taking my jacket but thought, ‘Well the rain is getting lighter and I do see a few patches of blue on the horizon…nah, I’ll be okay without it.’ I informed PJ and John I was heading out and gave Clem a high five in exchange for a bag of chips before proceeding back out.
Just as I was making my way past the guard dogs and storage bins, Brenda comes barreling out of the trailhead with Ryan in close pursuit! We exchanged salutations, with Ryan jokingly telling me I was going too fast. Found Shaka about 400 m behind Ryan looking very pleased and somewhat enjoying the rain and mud! Way to go Bro! Habu was about 10 to 15 minutes behind him still smiling and enjoying the trails! Amazing!
I got up the switchbacks and ascended the three hard hills at a quicker pace than before, even stopping to congratulate Heather at the picnic table as she began her descent and completing her loop. That was when things turned well…messy! The ground had become sooo saturated the mud literally engulfed your foot all the way to your ankles, often threatening to steal your shoes! At one point as I was coming down one of the twisting ascents, my leg sunk up to mid-calf and I had to use my arms to pull it free! In struggling to gain some foothold in the mud, navigate around the mud and water patches, and ascertain where I was, I got disoriented and forgot what section was coming up. I began thinking I was slowing down and I was tiring out, when in reality I was maintaining the same pace! I just had not remembered the order of the landmarks and sections due to my state of frustration with the mud and increase in rainfall. I got to Rob’s in 2 hours and was back to traversing the singletrack over the ridgeline in the same time as before (at 2 hrs and 30 minutes)! Upon realizing this I settled down and decided it was time for a little reward! Grabbing a chocolate chip peanut butter ClifBar, I casually walked for a good five minutes of the trail out to Peacock, enjoying a midafternoon snack.
About half way to Long Road, the rain was still not letting up and the winds were beginning to pickup. I felt the familiar sensation I had gotten in Janauary, tinges of cold entering my muscles, major shivering in my arms and shoulders, pensiveness in my thoughts as well as a feeling of despair. I then stopped to switch out of my wet shirt and get my long sleeve on, much better though it would be soaked by the time I began making my way back up Long Road. Oh well. I decided to deal with that when that point came and jogged the rest of the trail, greeting the leaders as they began making their way back to the Kealia trail then finishing up.
It was about 4:45 pm by the time I got out to the beginning of Long Road and 5:15pm when I got to the Peacock Flats gate. The rain had created a good mist and it was getting a bit dark, but not where lights were needed (though many of the leaders had already put theirs on). In attempting to jog down Long Road, I found that my legs were so tight from the cold, I couldn’t summon the strength to get them moving again. Just before the first water tank going down, I encountered Fish and Marian heading back up. Fish checked in with me, noticing I seemed less enthused. After informing him that I was feeling the ‘Iceman’ returning, both of them told me to ‘just keep moving and don’t think negatively…I had 15-miles left to go and I was in terrific shape..don’t worry about running just do the power walk!’
As I got a little over halfway down, I began to hear and see things. Movement in the pasture on my left, someone calling me from behind….oh boy! I’ve often heard that during ultras many competitors hallucinate and hear things…wow guess this an ultra!!! Several posts and small trees got mistaken as people cheering for me…even thought I saw a menehune, nope that was a small post by the open storm drain! Woooahhh!!!!
I got to the bottom of Long Road around 6:30pm (12 hours, 30+ minutes accumulated time), dragging my shivering behind in and feeling pretty unsure about what I could do to warm up. Cheryl felt sad about not having anything warm to give but did massage my arms to get the blood flowing, then passed me two good sized hunks of peanut butter & jam bread and another bag of chips. Ernest helped get my hydration bag off, fill it up with Gatorade, then pull out my lights. Heather who had been hanging out, informed me that Habu had decided to do some extra mileage and had set back out to do just the main upper loop (which he later told me proved to be more than he thought it was supposed to be). He had just called and told her he was in and was gonna leave after cleaning up a bit. She had also picked up some musubis for Shaka and I. Seeing that I was shivering, she quickly got her jacket off and got it on me. Ahhhhh…instant warmth!!! They got me suited back up and on my way. Rob had just gotten back from closing up ‘shop’ on the loop and told me that Brenda, Ryan, Johnny, Rex, Devon, and Mike M. were the last on the trail.
As I headed back out, I could see the various lights coming down the mountain side, though they were a bit obscured by the misting rain (still going). I was about a mile out when Brenda came by followed closely by Ryan and Johnny (all trading words of encouragement). Just as the ‘world went black’ save the small specks of road illuminated by my lights, my phone went off. Half thinking it was either Maniacles checking on our progress or Heather calling to tell me that Johnny wanted the jacket, I pulled the cell out and answered…it was Laura K (aka Frayed Laces)! Just trying to talk a few sentences was a bit challenging as my teeth were still chattering from the wet shirt underneath the jacket. However I was very excited to hear another person’s voice in the dark…at least I knew it wasn’t a hallucination or voices in my head! She was calling to see how I was gonna run the Niketown 30k the next morning. ‘Well right now I’m concentrating on navigating in the dark up Long Road and trying to remember all of the landmarks and route back to the Kealia trail…sorry kiddo, the 30k is the furthest thing from my mind right now!’ Huh, was her first reaction (think she thought I was losing it or something), then she remembered what we were up to…yup, I have 11+ more miles to go….yes, I am still running, errr jogging…okay walking. No, fo’ real…Hey Brenda, Ryan!...really they just ran by to the aid station and I just left…Hey it’s Shaka! Dude, Laura says Hi!! (Shaka yells out ‘Hi!’ over the phone).’ Laura conversed me for the better part of 15-minutes of the beginning of the ascent up Long Road. Though it was sounding like a dazed and confused person jabbering to someone more sane, it was great to have the conversation and get my mind off my present situation. After hanging up, I began to see lights out of the corner of my eye..oh boy, here come the hallucinations again. Five minutes later, a pair of lights came right at me…crap…oh it’s Devon. Alright buddy keep it going! It’s amazing what a little company can do for you! Mike M. followed a couple minutes later, we stopped for a few moments to shake hands. He then warned me that the upper area was becoming pretty iffy, the clouds and misting rains were moving in so visibility was be very hard. Alright! Thanks Mike! Oh boy!
As I tried pushing up the road, my usual power walk was more like a trudge up the hill. I felt a lot more disoriented in not being able to see exactly where I was and the extents of the road…knew I had zig-zagged quite a few times across it. Felt the road curve and a few inclines…okay so where are those water towers?!?!?! After what felt like over an hour (actually was just under) I saw some reflective material in the middle of the road…it’s a gate!! But which one? I then saw the signs for Peacock Flats! Wow I’m here! Did I pass the hard section of Long Road already?!?! I then attempted to shine my lights past the gate and could not see a darn thing beyond 5 feet in front of me! Oh- kay!
I really felt pretty uncertain about continuing on in the dark, I had a couple of times where I ended up on the side of the road, almost coming totally off it. I didn’t wanna end up somewhere I shouldn’t. Despite the jacket, the light rain and winds were making me cold again. Being alone up there wasn’t in my best interest at that point…on the H.U.R.T. loop, yeah, I’m okay there..here NO WAY! I pulled out my phone and called Heather to find out where Shaka, Brenda and Ryan were in terms of time when I left. She told me that they were at least 35 to 40 minutes behind me, they all left together. Rex was not too far behind…and he was running a bit! I then attempted to call Brenda and Johnny on their phones, no answer from Shaka and Wah had Brenda’s phone. Well just gotta wait…began walking and jogging in circles about the mauka side of the gate, checking my watch every so often and hoping the batteries in my lights wouldn’t give out. Exactly 35 minutes later I thought I saw two pairs of lights far down the trail, then they disappeared for a moment, then came back up. ‘BRENDA! RYAN!’ No answer. All of a sudden the trail seemed to light up VERY brightly and there was a loud whoosh! Is that a truck?
The sound ended up being the wind blowing through the valley below. The lights were Brenda and Ryan! Yes!!! After yelling out to them and attempting to jump up, I re-iterated my predicament and asked if they minded a third with them. They were both very happy to have me along with them…the more the better!
Though we first thought we were moving along rather slow, we were actually making very good time. We had already passed the hardest part of ascending Long Road (though we never saw the water tanks) and were back on the jeep trail 10-minutes after meeting up at the gate! As we sloshed about in the muddy trails and kept an eye out for signs of where we were, we conversed about things we wanted to do once we were finished….taking a long luxurious hot bath and soaking, curling up with the dog, and anything but running this course anytime in the next few months were several answers (you can guess who said what)!
We continued moving at a steady pace, stopping a couple times for no. 1, then keeping up the tempo. Rex came flying out of the darkness like the Batman, he checked up on us and gave us words of encouragement…then he was gone…I mean he was really moving like he just started the event!!!
We got back to the Kealia trail faster than we anticipated and even were at the picnic table in no time! Our descent down the switchbacks was a bit rugged, including a couple slips, spills, and many calls of slight pains as we tried to get the proper footing and keep eye to foot coordination. Several areas had been reduced to mud bogs and many rocks loosened.
As the trail slope began to flatten, we realized ‘the worse is over, we’re almost through!’ In coming out of the fencing at the trail head, we celebrated with long congratulatory hugs and thanking each other for getting us all through. We triumphantly strode toward the canopy at the parking lot, the lights shining there beacons of celebration! Wah came out to us halfway and gave us all hugs and joined in our moment! Ernest also came up and congratulated us about 200 meters out, and joined in the procession to the finish. He then had us look up the mountain and we could see Shaka and Devon making their way down the switchbacks! Despite the warning of being quiet, I could not resist and let out a whoop of excitement for Brother Shaka as I knew he was gonna be finished and well within the time limit!
I didn’t hear our official time from John but stopped my chrono a few minutes following our finish…16:57:05! My second loop took me 9 hrs and 44 minutes. I had anticipated about 8hours to 8:30 but having the company of Brenda and Ryan was well worth the wait. John, PJ, and Clem congratulated us and offered some very good pizza that the Huffs’ had brought. Johnny finished about 15-20 minutes later, very happy and feeling triumphant as well, though he was very anxious to get home shower and hit the sack!
Much thanks should go out the H.U.R.T. gang, especially John & PJ, Cheryl/’Catra’, Clem, Rob, and Wah for doing the aid stations and time keeping; Gordon, Larry, and Don for devising this (mad) event, coordinating the use of the trails and airfield, getting the DLNR permitting, and marking the trail so well! Despite the conditions, the event went along very well! All the participants should be proud of what they accomplished, moreover feel that they also helped each other to do so. What I have always noticed about the H.U.R.T. events is that though there is some competition, everyone is so supportive on each other not matter what place, speed, or time you are in. It’s all about finishing and having a great time! For Shaka, Habu, Brenda and I, this was THE LONGEST distance we’ve ran in a single event to date (Ryan has done the 100k for the 2008 H.U.R.T. 100). I’m very proud to have been able to participate in this event and been in the company of all that participated.
People will often bring up names like Carnazes when the word ultrumarathon is brought up. True he’s done some pretty impressive things and won his share, however my first thoughts will always be of the awesome group of people that I’ve had the honor and pleasure of sharing the trails with during all the H.U.R.T. events!. As I mentioned before, I never liked ‘racing’ on the trail and it’s been where I have had the most fun and experienced a lot…wanna keep it that way for quite some time.
My Mahalo list is quite extensive: Fish, Gordon, Larry, Bob McC and Huddy for plethora of trail advice; John and PJ for refusing to let me NOT enter the 100; Marian for keeping me entertained on the main loop; my two angels, Cheryl and Wah, who made sure I was well fed and in the proper spirit; Brother Shaka for getting me to get out and do the practice loops and really think about what I needed to do for this; Heather for all the support, company on the trails, and use of the jacket (what a lifesaver!); Brenda and Ryan, for company not only during the event but also in training (next is H.U.R.T.!), and the constant support and words of encouragement; Ernest for not letting me think about stopping longer and refilling my water pouch; Maniacles, for the constant words of encouragement and sage advice in extending my weekly distances; Ray, for all the support, testing of products, use of his store as a second home, and the endless training and racing advice; the Essenbergs for being my second (or third) family; my two trail sisters, Elisa and Amy, (they’ve never met each other) though both having moved back to the continental US, the times I spent with them doing the various trail runs will never be forgotten…hope we can do more soon; Laura K/Frayed Laces, for the ‘call’…misery loves company!, still waiting for ya to ‘get out there’; and most of all to both my entire Runners’ HI Ohana and the H.U.R.T gang for the constant support, encouragement, and great times together! Though the event was during just that single 20 hour period, the adventure to get there started in January and all of you have been instrumental in getting me to this point and beyond!
The start of H.U.R.T. races are no spectacular event (with exception of the Maunawili run), ‘just out ya all go!’ As Don and Gordon gave final instructions, they warned us of the impending elements and treacherous areas that may await us. ‘Safety is the main thing!’ With all being said and done, Don the reported, “20 seconds to start!” Whoops guess I wasn’t gonna be able to refill my water, oh well there was copious amounts falling from the sky! I had only about 50-oz of water still inside when we started, but luckily I also put a bottle of Gatorade in the exterior pocket of the pack.
As Don and Gordon gave final instructions, they warned us of the impending elements and treacherous areas that may await us. ‘Safety is the main thing!’ With all being said and done, Don the reported, “20 seconds to start!” Whoops guess I wasn’t gonna be able to refill my water, oh well there was copious amounts falling from the sky!
About 28 people braved the rain to sign up and start the run that morning, all having various goals and reasons for doing this. For Brenda, Ryan, Shakaman and I, it was just all about finishing and within the allotted time…so basically the clock was our main adversary. So as we began our initial approach to the singletrack switchbacks ascending the mountain, I did a quick job up to jockey a good position and not get stuck to far in the back.
I managed to pace out with Marian and a young Army cadet named Mike. It’s always fun hanging out and passing time with Marian. We shared fun stories and interesting experiences, including her recent mainland ultras (Miwok & Rocky Raccoon) and my ‘Iceman’ incedent (getting hypothermia at Hilo2Volcano)…perhaps a foretelling of things to come!
Three simple words most characterize the event that day…wet and muddy! The switchbacks and steep sets of jeep trail inclines were quickly becoming miniature waterfalls with the base ponding with mud and water. As we rounded several curves, we felt our feet skidding across the loose surfacing with little purchase beneath the mud. Throughout all the tumultuous amount of mud and constant drizzle of rain, we all remained positive and optimistic…better cool, wet and a bit muddy than hot, humid and dust, right? Besides we (or at least most of us) were having a great time! I’ve always mentioned to John S. that a good amount of mud is a requirement for events to be actual H.U.R.T. runs!
In reaching the short asphalt road, Rob was at the bottom providing Gatorade, water, snacks, and much support. He had braved the mud in his truck to set up a makeshift station, despite the wind and rain he was all smiles in making sure we were good to go for the duration of the two loops! Thanks Rob!
In reaching the single-track trail along the ridgeline of the mountain range (time at 2 hours, 30 minutes), I let Marian go first, with that she sped off along the ridge. Mike was still pacing off with me but I could tell he was losing steam as we traversed the route to the intersection going to Peacock Flats. He fell back about 100 meters but made up the distance once we returned to the jeep trail. He looked pretty exhausted so tried to keep up a conversation with him to get him to settle down and just keep a steady pace. He was rather pensive, so I settled on just commenting on a few landmarks and observances I made out loud to just cut the silence of the run.
The trail out to Peacock Flats and Long Road was already accumulating a lot of water and mud, about halfway through we encountered an off-roader going in the opposite direction. We exchanged ‘shakas’ and went our way. About a mile to the Green gate, I picked up a flattened can of ‘Monster’ Energy Drink that seemed to have been recently tossed and took it with me to dispose of. Gotta take care of the ‘aina!
The aide station at the bottom of Long Road was perhaps one of the best highlights of the entire event! Cheryl and Wah were instrumental in not only having everything ready there and aiding runners with refilling hydration packs, but also keeping our morale up! They were totally AWESOME! Words cannot describe the amount of support and motivation they gave each time a runner came in to refuel! Mahalos ladies! Fish, who was waiting for the second loop to pace Marian, was also great in making sure I was well stocked with fuel and remind me to make sure I had what I needed for my next loop.
As I began my way back up Long Road, Cheryl and Fish shoved a bag of Sun Chips into my hand, reminding me to pull out and devour my pbj sandwich I had packed earlier. As I devoured sections of the sandwich, I scanned the road to see what happened to Mike. I had stopped for about 10 minutes (in at 4 hrs, 3 min; out by 4:13) and he had not even been sighted coming down the road yet. As I got to within 200 meters of the gate, he had just crossed over it and was jogging toward me. He looked a bit beat but was maintaining that he had pushed the descent too much (I later found out that he pulled out at the aid station). Following him were Brenda, Ryan, Johnny, Ernest, and Mike M, all in great spirits and moving quickly to the aid station! Alright gang! Halfway up to the first water tank, Habu came ‘a motorin’ around’…with a big smile on his face! He made a few comments about the mud but was having a great time! Looking at my watch it was not yet 5 hours! He could actually do the entire event, just making it in at the cutoff! Go Habu-sama!! In reaching the second water tank, I encountered Heather and few others doing only one loop. She looked very warm in her pullover! Yup was jealous!
My plan was to push up Long Road with a very moderate tempo’d power walk, then go back to running at a good pace once I got back onto the trails. It was all proceeding well. The rain was still falling creating additional mud and causing some rockfall along the side of the trail going back to the Kealia trail. I was in great spirits and even stopped to pick up more discarded material, a very large rain poncho rolled up neatly and two additional drink cans. About 1/3 of the way there I encountered a group of off-roading vehicles (three trucks and two jeeps), the people were amazed at all the runners and were having fun themselves. Many of the drivers were having quite a challenge maneuvering their vehicles in the slick mud!
I made great time in getting back to the Kealia trail and even better time to the switchbacks…much due to Gordon’s great marking of the route! At first I thought the shale and loose rocks on the descent back down would be the problem, turned out the saturated trail had turned to goo making slipping the primary issue. Nonetheless I proceeded down unfaltered, acknowledging and cheering on those beginning their second loop.
I completed my first loop in just over 7 hours (7:03). After checking in with John & PJ, they quickly offered to help me reload everything. I thanked them for their kokua but had my supplies on my truck only a 100 meters away. ‘Mr & Mrs H.U.R.T.’ are always so supportive and helpful! In making my way to my vehicle, I ran through my mind what I was gonna do. I got off my pack then switched shirts, drying off with a warm towel in between. I then got my wet shoes and socks off, got them bagged up, and got on clean, dry ones. I traded my cap for a visor then pulled out what I needed for the next loop: long-sleeve shirt, two hand held lights, headlamp, five more gels, another sandwich, and a ClifBar just in case.
During my first loop I had consumed half a Powerbar, 6 gels, a bag of PowerBurst energy gummies, and four ClifBlocs (along with the sandwich and chips), along with drinking my bottle of Gatorade. Figured I’d be out longer this time so had a total of 7 gels, a bag of ClifBlocs, three ClifBars, a PowerBar, half a bag of PowerBursts, and another pbj sandwich. I refilled my Gatorade bottle and water pouch, packed my equipment up, did a once over, then secured my car. I thought about taking my jacket but thought, ‘Well the rain is getting lighter and I do see a few patches of blue on the horizon…nah, I’ll be okay without it.’ I informed PJ and John I was heading out and gave Clem a high five in exchange for a bag of chips before proceeding back out.
Just as I was making my way past the guard dogs and storage bins, Brenda comes barreling out of the trailhead with Ryan in close pursuit! We exchanged salutations, with Ryan jokingly telling me I was going too fast. Found Shaka about 400 m behind Ryan looking very pleased and somewhat enjoying the rain and mud! Way to go Bro! Habu was about 10 to 15 minutes behind him still smiling and enjoying the trails! Amazing!
I got up the switchbacks and ascended the three hard hills at a quicker pace than before, even stopping to congratulate Heather at the picnic table as she began her descent and completing her loop. That was when things turned well…messy! The ground had become sooo saturated the mud literally engulfed your foot all the way to your ankles, often threatening to steal your shoes! At one point as I was coming down one of the twisting ascents, my leg sunk up to mid-calf and I had to use my arms to pull it free! In struggling to gain some foothold in the mud, navigate around the mud and water patches, and ascertain where I was, I got disoriented and forgot what section was coming up. I began thinking I was slowing down and I was tiring out, when in reality I was maintaining the same pace! I just had not remembered the order of the landmarks and sections due to my state of frustration with the mud and increase in rainfall. I got to Rob’s in 2 hours and was back to traversing the singletrack over the ridgeline in the same time as before (at 2 hrs and 30 minutes)! Upon realizing this I settled down and decided it was time for a little reward! Grabbing a chocolate chip peanut butter ClifBar, I casually walked for a good five minutes of the trail out to Peacock, enjoying a midafternoon snack.
About half way to Long Road, the rain was still not letting up and the winds were beginning to pickup. I felt the familiar sensation I had gotten in Janauary, tinges of cold entering my muscles, major shivering in my arms and shoulders, pensiveness in my thoughts as well as a feeling of despair. I then stopped to switch out of my wet shirt and get my long sleeve on, much better though it would be soaked by the time I began making my way back up Long Road. Oh well. I decided to deal with that when that point came and jogged the rest of the trail, greeting the leaders as they began making their way back to the Kealia trail then finishing up.
It was about 4:45 pm by the time I got out to the beginning of Long Road and 5:15pm when I got to the Peacock Flats gate. The rain had created a good mist and it was getting a bit dark, but not where lights were needed (though many of the leaders had already put theirs on). In attempting to jog down Long Road, I found that my legs were so tight from the cold, I couldn’t summon the strength to get them moving again. Just before the first water tank going down, I encountered Fish and Marian heading back up. Fish checked in with me, noticing I seemed less enthused. After informing him that I was feeling the ‘Iceman’ returning, both of them told me to ‘just keep moving and don’t think negatively…I had 15-miles left to go and I was in terrific shape..don’t worry about running just do the power walk!’
As I got a little over halfway down, I began to hear and see things. Movement in the pasture on my left, someone calling me from behind….oh boy! I’ve often heard that during ultras many competitors hallucinate and hear things…wow guess this an ultra!!! Several posts and small trees got mistaken as people cheering for me…even thought I saw a menehune, nope that was a small post by the open storm drain! Woooahhh!!!!
I got to the bottom of Long Road around 6:30pm (12 hours, 30+ minutes accumulated time), dragging my shivering behind in and feeling pretty unsure about what I could do to warm up. Cheryl felt sad about not having anything warm to give but did massage my arms to get the blood flowing, then passed me two good sized hunks of peanut butter & jam bread and another bag of chips. Ernest helped get my hydration bag off, fill it up with Gatorade, then pull out my lights. Heather who had been hanging out, informed me that Habu had decided to do some extra mileage and had set back out to do just the main upper loop (which he later told me proved to be more than he thought it was supposed to be). He had just called and told her he was in and was gonna leave after cleaning up a bit. She had also picked up some musubis for Shaka and I. Seeing that I was shivering, she quickly got her jacket off and got it on me. Ahhhhh…instant warmth!!! They got me suited back up and on my way. Rob had just gotten back from closing up ‘shop’ on the loop and told me that Brenda, Ryan, Johnny, Rex, Devon, and Mike M. were the last on the trail.
As I headed back out, I could see the various lights coming down the mountain side, though they were a bit obscured by the misting rain (still going). I was about a mile out when Brenda came by followed closely by Ryan and Johnny (all trading words of encouragement). Just as the ‘world went black’ save the small specks of road illuminated by my lights, my phone went off. Half thinking it was either Maniacles checking on our progress or Heather calling to tell me that Johnny wanted the jacket, I pulled the cell out and answered…it was Laura K (aka Frayed Laces)! Just trying to talk a few sentences was a bit challenging as my teeth were still chattering from the wet shirt underneath the jacket. However I was very excited to hear another person’s voice in the dark…at least I knew it wasn’t a hallucination or voices in my head! She was calling to see how I was gonna run the Niketown 30k the next morning. ‘Well right now I’m concentrating on navigating in the dark up Long Road and trying to remember all of the landmarks and route back to the Kealia trail…sorry kiddo, the 30k is the furthest thing from my mind right now!’ Huh, was her first reaction (think she thought I was losing it or something), then she remembered what we were up to…yup, I have 11+ more miles to go….yes, I am still running, errr jogging…okay walking. No, fo’ real…Hey Brenda, Ryan!...really they just ran by to the aid station and I just left…Hey it’s Shaka! Dude, Laura says Hi!! (Shaka yells out ‘Hi!’ over the phone).’ Laura conversed me for the better part of 15-minutes of the beginning of the ascent up Long Road. Though it was sounding like a dazed and confused person jabbering to someone more sane, it was great to have the conversation and get my mind off my present situation. After hanging up, I began to see lights out of the corner of my eye..oh boy, here come the hallucinations again. Five minutes later, a pair of lights came right at me…crap…oh it’s Devon. Alright buddy keep it going! It’s amazing what a little company can do for you! Mike M. followed a couple minutes later, we stopped for a few moments to shake hands. He then warned me that the upper area was becoming pretty iffy, the clouds and misting rains were moving in so visibility was be very hard. Alright! Thanks Mike! Oh boy!
As I tried pushing up the road, my usual power walk was more like a trudge up the hill. I felt a lot more disoriented in not being able to see exactly where I was and the extents of the road…knew I had zig-zagged quite a few times across it. Felt the road curve and a few inclines…okay so where are those water towers?!?!?! After what felt like over an hour (actually was just under) I saw some reflective material in the middle of the road…it’s a gate!! But which one? I then saw the signs for Peacock Flats! Wow I’m here! Did I pass the hard section of Long Road already?!?! I then attempted to shine my lights past the gate and could not see a darn thing beyond 5 feet in front of me! Oh- kay!
I really felt pretty uncertain about continuing on in the dark, I had a couple of times where I ended up on the side of the road, almost coming totally off it. I didn’t wanna end up somewhere I shouldn’t. Despite the jacket, the light rain and winds were making me cold again. Being alone up there wasn’t in my best interest at that point…on the H.U.R.T. loop, yeah, I’m okay there..here NO WAY! I pulled out my phone and called Heather to find out where Shaka, Brenda and Ryan were in terms of time when I left. She told me that they were at least 35 to 40 minutes behind me, they all left together. Rex was not too far behind…and he was running a bit! I then attempted to call Brenda and Johnny on their phones, no answer from Shaka and Wah had Brenda’s phone. Well just gotta wait…began walking and jogging in circles about the mauka side of the gate, checking my watch every so often and hoping the batteries in my lights wouldn’t give out. Exactly 35 minutes later I thought I saw two pairs of lights far down the trail, then they disappeared for a moment, then came back up. ‘BRENDA! RYAN!’ No answer. All of a sudden the trail seemed to light up VERY brightly and there was a loud whoosh! Is that a truck?
The sound ended up being the wind blowing through the valley below. The lights were Brenda and Ryan! Yes!!! After yelling out to them and attempting to jump up, I re-iterated my predicament and asked if they minded a third with them. They were both very happy to have me along with them…the more the better!
Though we first thought we were moving along rather slow, we were actually making very good time. We had already passed the hardest part of ascending Long Road (though we never saw the water tanks) and were back on the jeep trail 10-minutes after meeting up at the gate! As we sloshed about in the muddy trails and kept an eye out for signs of where we were, we conversed about things we wanted to do once we were finished….taking a long luxurious hot bath and soaking, curling up with the dog, and anything but running this course anytime in the next few months were several answers (you can guess who said what)!
We continued moving at a steady pace, stopping a couple times for no. 1, then keeping up the tempo. Rex came flying out of the darkness like the Batman, he checked up on us and gave us words of encouragement…then he was gone…I mean he was really moving like he just started the event!!!
We got back to the Kealia trail faster than we anticipated and even were at the picnic table in no time! Our descent down the switchbacks was a bit rugged, including a couple slips, spills, and many calls of slight pains as we tried to get the proper footing and keep eye to foot coordination. Several areas had been reduced to mud bogs and many rocks loosened.
As the trail slope began to flatten, we realized ‘the worse is over, we’re almost through!’ In coming out of the fencing at the trail head, we celebrated with long congratulatory hugs and thanking each other for getting us all through. We triumphantly strode toward the canopy at the parking lot, the lights shining there beacons of celebration! Wah came out to us halfway and gave us all hugs and joined in our moment! Ernest also came up and congratulated us about 200 meters out, and joined in the procession to the finish. He then had us look up the mountain and we could see Shaka and Devon making their way down the switchbacks! Despite the warning of being quiet, I could not resist and let out a whoop of excitement for Brother Shaka as I knew he was gonna be finished and well within the time limit!
I didn’t hear our official time from John but stopped my chrono a few minutes following our finish…16:57:05! My second loop took me 9 hrs and 44 minutes. I had anticipated about 8hours to 8:30 but having the company of Brenda and Ryan was well worth the wait. John, PJ, and Clem congratulated us and offered some very good pizza that the Huffs’ had brought. Johnny finished about 15-20 minutes later, very happy and feeling triumphant as well, though he was very anxious to get home shower and hit the sack!
Much thanks should go out the H.U.R.T. gang, especially John & PJ, Cheryl/’Catra’, Clem, Rob, and Wah for doing the aid stations and time keeping; Gordon, Larry, and Don for devising this (mad) event, coordinating the use of the trails and airfield, getting the DLNR permitting, and marking the trail so well! Despite the conditions, the event went along very well! All the participants should be proud of what they accomplished, moreover feel that they also helped each other to do so. What I have always noticed about the H.U.R.T. events is that though there is some competition, everyone is so supportive on each other not matter what place, speed, or time you are in. It’s all about finishing and having a great time! For Shaka, Habu, Brenda and I, this was THE LONGEST distance we’ve ran in a single event to date (Ryan has done the 100k for the 2008 H.U.R.T. 100). I’m very proud to have been able to participate in this event and been in the company of all that participated.
People will often bring up names like Carnazes when the word ultrumarathon is brought up. True he’s done some pretty impressive things and won his share, however my first thoughts will always be of the awesome group of people that I’ve had the honor and pleasure of sharing the trails with during all the H.U.R.T. events!. As I mentioned before, I never liked ‘racing’ on the trail and it’s been where I have had the most fun and experienced a lot…wanna keep it that way for quite some time.
My Mahalo list is quite extensive: Fish, Gordon, Larry, Bob McC and Huddy for plethora of trail advice; John and PJ for refusing to let me NOT enter the 100; Marian for keeping me entertained on the main loop; my two angels, Cheryl and Wah, who made sure I was well fed and in the proper spirit; Brother Shaka for getting me to get out and do the practice loops and really think about what I needed to do for this; Heather for all the support, company on the trails, and use of the jacket (what a lifesaver!); Brenda and Ryan, for company not only during the event but also in training (next is H.U.R.T.!), and the constant support and words of encouragement; Ernest for not letting me think about stopping longer and refilling my water pouch; Maniacles, for the constant words of encouragement and sage advice in extending my weekly distances; Ray, for all the support, testing of products, use of his store as a second home, and the endless training and racing advice; the Essenbergs for being my second (or third) family; my two trail sisters, Elisa and Amy, (they’ve never met each other) though both having moved back to the continental US, the times I spent with them doing the various trail runs will never be forgotten…hope we can do more soon; Laura K/Frayed Laces, for the ‘call’…misery loves company!, still waiting for ya to ‘get out there’; and most of all to both my entire Runners’ HI Ohana and the H.U.R.T gang for the constant support, encouragement, and great times together! Though the event was during just that single 20 hour period, the adventure to get there started in January and all of you have been instrumental in getting me to this point and beyond!
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